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Building the Tom Henry RS
Part One: Easy Stuff First
It's late March, 2007.
It's been over a year
since the fifth-generation Camaro Concept vehicle
introduction and the toast of this year's Detroit Auto
Show was the 2010 Camaro Convertible Concept. These
cars' production versions arriving at dealers is still
2-3 years off, so even we hardcores at
The Camaro Homepage
are wondering if the buzz in the industry and the press
is going to drop-off as we get into the middle of a
two-year wait for the Coupe.
A few Industry
observers and and automotive media are beginning to
sound like devil's advocates. Product Editor, Rick Kranz,
wrote in
Automotive News
last October 9th, "(Camaros)
are sharp-looking cars. But does that mean they are
immune to the impact of fluctuating gasoline prices,
especially the thirsty V8 models?
"Will the Federal
Reserve cap
(interest)
rate hikes, or will rates continue upward? Each bump in
the rate can translate into a higher monthly car
payment. There are lots of Sam Malone's out
there--remember the bar owner from "Cheers", who loved
his Vette but sometimes barely had enough quarters in
his pocket to buy a burger? Lots of Camaro enthusiasts
fit that profile.
"The challenge: create
a continual buzz for the Camaro beyond displaying
concepts on the auto show circuit. Passing out posters
and brochures until the cars arrive won't be enough, let
alone directing potential buyers to dedicated Web
sites."
Ouch! Kranz! You're
killin' us, bud.
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The V6 version of the
2010 Camaro is the product which will
sell the most and needs to be done
right. Image: GM Communications |
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Rick Jensen, Editor of
GM High-Tech
Performance,
said in his November '06 issue,
"While knuckledraggers
traded the Fourth Gen's low seating position, firm ride
and limited legroom for outstanding performance,
non-enthusiasts avoided the '93-'02 F-bodies. And
rightfully so:
(mainstream customers)
are not going to give a damn about the latest LSx
underneath the V-8 Camaro's hood--they're looking for an
attractive, V-6-powered sports coupe that's fun to drive
and easy to live with. Give
(that)
to them and
(GM will)
sell a ton of those base models."
"Autoextremist",
a web site read by industry insiders and hardcore
enthusiasts, posts what it says is the "unvarnished
truth". In mid-May of '06, Publisher, Peter DeLorenzo
said in his issue #354 about the coming 2010,
"The make-or-break
business case for the new Camaro won't be the 400HP V-8,
six-speed version, because GM can do that car in its
sleep and make it great. The real issue is the V-6
version, a car that must be worthy of the Camaro
nameplate, first of all, and be premium in every respect
while delivering an outstanding performance/value
equation vis-a-vis the competition. This is the car that
GM must get right if the Camaro is going to be a success
in the market."
Expectedly, we're not
as doubting as Mr. Kranz, but we agree with one of his
implications which is shared (but, stated more
emphatically) by Mr. Jensen and Mr. DeLorenzo. Just in
case you still aren't heads-up on the sitch, here's our
spin: Chevrolet needs to back-up the promises made by
the fifth-generation Camaro concepts with
solid product
and the key part of that is going to be not the
high-performance, V-8 powered SS--but
the base-level, V-6, Sports Coupe.
So what does the 2010
Sport Coupe need to be? Well...Rick Jensen's mandates
"...fun to
drive and easy to live with..."
are good for starters. Peter DeLorenzo's point that its
execution must, "...be
premium in every respect while delivering an outstanding
performance/value equation vis-a-vis the competition."
drives the
point home. Not only that, the car must have quality
surpassing that of any Camaro of the past. It's interior
must be comfortable, practical and refined but not
overladen with stupid technology for the sake of
technology. As for performance: the new V-6 needs to be
more powerful and capable of at least equal or better
fuel economy.
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The Holden Commodore
uses GM's 3.6L Global V6 engine. It's
available in three flavors, 235-hp,
240-hp and 260-hp. Image: GM Holden Ltd. |
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An '10 Sports Coupe will
likely have GM's 3.6-liter "Global" V-6 Engine
under the hood. GM will be remiss if
they don't use what the Australians at Holden
who developed the engine, call the "190"
version, which is the high-output variant with
260-hp at 6500 RPM.
Since Camaro's
1967 debut, a six-cylinder engine ('67-'79, I-6;
'80-'02, V6) has been either standard or, for
four years in the early-’80s when General Motors
made the awful mistake of an inline-four for a
base engine, a midlevel option.
For the
Camaro's first ten years , V8s outsold sixes by
a considerable margin, but in 1977, with our
country in the throes of an agonizing gasoline
shortage, V6s sold on par with V8s. From then
on, until production temporarily ceased after
model year 2002 (MY02), six-cylinder market
penetration averaged 50.4% and, for MY93-02,
V6es sold 62.4%. Bottom line, there’s a ton of
sixes out there, especially in fourth generation
Camaros. |
One reason V6es sold
well towards the end of the 4th Gen era was the 200-hp,
3.8-liter engine introduced in halfway through 1995.
Called “3800 Series 2”, it’s the unblown version of the
supercharged motor used up to MY05 in the Impala and
Monte Carlo SSes. By mid-'90s standards, for buyers
looking for a sporty coupe but for whom performance was
a consideration but not the most important one, this
offered a more affordable alternative to the V8-powered
Z28s and SSes.
Back in late-'05 and
early-'06, when gas prices went bonkers, visitors to our
parent company, Tom Henry Racing (THR) were asking about V6es.
Aftermarket companies tell us demand for V6 performance
products has grown indicating interest in hot-rodding
those cars. There are even web sites devoted to V6
Camaros at www.forum.camarov6.com and
http://www.3800pro.com/forum/.
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Here's our project car.
It'll take us about year but it will
end-up as the Tom Henry RS and will use
a few general ideas we hope to see in
the '10 base Camaro. Image: CHpg staff. |
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We decided to jump on
the bandwagon, acquire a 2001 Camaro V6, 5-speed and try
some mods. We're calling the car a "Tom Henry RS", in
honor of the famed V8-powered Tom Henry SS "tuner"
Camaros of '01 and '02. Since we're starting this
project in the dead of winter '06 / '07, we've farmed the job out
to THR's, West Coast development "laboratory" near Los
Angeles.
Our goal is more
exciting street performance, not building a drag race
car. In addition this project is a little bit of
"what-if". We want to modify the engine to about the
250-hp level to simulate the performance of which a 2010
base Camaro should be capable. Additionally, to get an
idea of how we'd like a 2010 Camaro V6 sports model to
handle, we're going to modify the suspension of this 4th
Gen V6 and see what happens.
Our engine mods will
pass a state exhaust emissions test and won't degrade
low-end torque. Our suspension enhancements will improve
handling but will still have the car riding reasonably
nice enough for commuting over the rough surfaces of
freeway/expressway systems in cities with the worst
roads in the country, such as Philadelphia, Detroit and
Los Angeles.
Before we start
working, let's talk about service data because
information is power–power over your Camaro if you work
on it yourself. Unless you’re an experienced Camaro
technician, you need a factory service manual (FSM) from
Helm, Inc., publisher of GM all service data. Our
2001 Chevrolet
Camaro Service Manual
was indispensable in preparing this series.
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Information is power. The
best service information on any Camaro
comes in the factory service
manual--actually, in this case, three
manuals. Image: CHpg staff. |
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A downside of
the factory manual is cost. Some of the stuff we
are going to do to the Tom Henry RS is discussed
in the less-expensive,
1993-2002
Camaro Haynes Repair Manual.
While the Haynes omits some front suspension
information, suggests some questionable tool
choices, and erroneously states you can’t work
on the brakes without a scan tester; it's an
acceptable reference for those on a tight budget
doing regular maintenance or basic repairs. On
the other hand, if you're getting into engine
controls diagnosis or heavy mod'ing, buy the FSM. |
What about parts? Most
of the GM and aftermarket parts we're going to use
during the next 12-months or so can be sourced from Tom
Henry Racing, the performance parts sales division of
Tom Henry Chevrolet. In the case of the few parts which
can't be purchased from THR, we'll tell you where to get
them.
The staff of Tom Henry
Racing's parts operations, headed by Parts Manager, Stan
Lorence, stands ready to assist any Camaro Homepage
visitor in finding Camaro parts. Additionally, the
people at Tom Henry Racing's Service Department, headed
by Manager, Cory Holland, can install many of the
modifications discussed in this series.
First Mods
After wheels and tires,
perhaps the most popular aftermarket modification
performed by Camaro fans is the addition of an
aftermarket exhaust system. Flowmaster’s American
Thunder system for ‘98-’02 Camaros with 3800 V6es (PN
17358) has larger, 2.5-in. aluminized pipe, an 80-series
muffler and stainless steel tips, all typical Flowmaster
features. It's unique part is a resonator,
cleverly-packaged beneath the passenger-side rear seat.
Flowmaster R&D chief, Kevin McClelland, says that
certain frequencies of V6 noise are difficult to
attenuate and this resonator facilitates that. One
Saturday, we got the car up on jack stands and installed
the American Thunder system using hand tools. We
demanded increased performance, improved sound and
better appearance. Flowmaster’s cat-back got us all
three.
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When we tried to get the
stock exhaust off, we found the
slip-joint behind the cat rusted tight.
An overnight treatment with Sili-Kroil
aerosol, one of the best penetrants on
the market sold by Eastwood Company, and
some additional blasts with Sili-Kroil
as we beat the old exhaust off with a
hammer, finally brought success. It's
amazing the restriction in this area of
the system where there are four
reductions in pipe size. The Flowmaster
exhaust eliminates the final step.
Modifications we'll do later in the
project will eliminate the third step.
Image: CHpg staff. |
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Since we were scrapping
the stock exhaust--what else would you
do with that piece of junk, anyway--it
was easier to cut the over axle pipe to
get the front section and the muffler
off.
Image: CHpg staff. |
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The Flowmaster 80-Series muffler is for transverse
applications. The inlet is at the top. Flowmaster paint
is not real durable, so we reshot it with Eastwood
Exhaust Paint, the best choice for parts running below
400°F. Image: CHpg staff. |
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Flowmaster’s V6 resonator fits neatly in the cavity
under the right rear seat. We bonded Design Engineering
Incorporated's Heat Screen Radiant Matting above it to
reduce heat radiation into the interior. The adhesive we
used was Dow Corning 736 which we also got from DEI.
Image: CHpg staff. |
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Drop the trackbar bar mount brace (left arrow) to get
Flowmaster’s over-axle pipe in place. When you tighten
the clamps, make sure that pipe doesn't interfere with
the underbody exhaust shield (right arrow). Image: CHpg
staff. |
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Besides
cheap paint, the other weakness of the Flowmaster kit is the washers on its clamps. Because the
washers deform during tightening, we had problems
getting clamps tight enough. To get the clamps to bite
harder, we replaced the washers in the kit, with some
double-thick, hardened washers we found at an industrial
hardware store. Image: CHpg staff |
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The Flowmaster exhaust for ’98-’02, V6s. Similar systems
are available for ’95-’97s 3.8s (PN 17357). It uses
stock exhaust hangers, comes with hardware and has
large, stainless steel tips. The sound is the seductive,
deep tone for which Flowmasters are famous. Image: CHpg
staff. |
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Chassis dynamometer
testing will be a key part of this project series. All
of our chassis dyno work will be done by the Westech
Performance Group in Mira Loma, California. Westech's
owner, Rick Stoner is a long time Chevrolet enthusiast
and owns a number of Chevy hot rods and classic
Corvettes. Westech's key specialties are dynamometer
testing, both engine and chassis, and custom engine
building. Westech’s SuperFlow SF840 chassis dynamometer
is a state-of-art piece of equipment which can be run in
either the "brake dyno" or "inertia dyno" modes. For
simple performance validation, Dynamometer Test
Technician Ernie Mena typically runs the SF840 an an
inertia dyno. |
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This is
Ernie Mena setting-up a wide-band O2 sensor
prior to one of the many tests we ran at Westech
Performance Group in the process of modifying this car.
Westech uses a unique, vacuum assisted O2S sensor which
quickens the system's response. Image: CHpg staff. |
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The Tom
Henry RS on Westech’s Superflow chassis dyno.
The Flowmaster cat-back gave us nearly 7% more power,
pretty darn good results for just an exhaust change.
Image CHpg staff.
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The full
power curve shows that gains begin
around 4000 rpm and go all the way to
the rev limiter, which in this test was
5700 rpm. The second graph, a close-up
of the peak power sections of the curve
shows an 11.1-hp SAE increase at the rear wheels. Clearly the stock
exhaust on these cars is quite restrictive. Images: CHpg
staff. |
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This is the Vericom VC3000 which replaced the veteran,
VC2000 a couple of years ago. It has typical Vericom
features: two-axis accelerometer core, 400Hz sampling
rate, and ability to upload data to a PC. New with the
3000 are: larger 128x64 LCD screen, ability to recall up
to 256 tests from memory, better keyboard, better
mounting system, USB port and–we saved the best for
last–with the DAQ model, ability to record OBD2 data via
the car's diagnostic link connector (DLC) as well as
from up to six accessory sensors. In our experience, the
Vericom VC3000's larger display and improved keyboard
make it nicer to use and the built in bubble levels are
a handy feature. Image: Vericom Computers. |
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Westech's Superflow
showed our V6 with the Flowmaster American
Thunder exhaust system gained a hair over 11,
horsepower (SAE-corrected) at the rear wheels
and road test numbers backed that up. Using a
Vericom VC3000 Performance Computer, an on-board
vehicle dynamics tester, we saw 0-to-60 time
decrease from 7.83 to 7.44-sec. and quarter mile
stats going from 16.15-sec./89.14-mph to
15.87/90.69.
Eleven horsepower and
nearly two tenths and a mile-and-a-half an hour in the
quarter is an outstanding improvement for just an
exhaust change on a car which, in stock trim, made only
162-hp (SAE) at the wheels. Clearly, the O.E. exhaust is
restrictive. In addition, it was too quiet, sounded
funky and had ugly tail pipes. The American Thunder
system gives that deep-toned, trademark Flowmaster sound
and its stainless outlets look a lot better. The Aussies
at Holden, who are doing most of the vehicle development
of the 2010 Camaro, need to listen to our project car so
they won't make the same mistake made by GM on the 4th
Gen car and put a wimpy exhaust on V6es.
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At Tom Henry Racing we
put lubricants from the Red Line Synthetic Oil
Corporation in a lot of customers' modified, street
high-performance Chevrolets. From the Cobalt SS
Supercharged to the Impala SS and from the Camaro to the
Corvette Z06, just about any hot rod Chevy can benefit
from Red Line's premium synthetic products.
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In this project car, we
used Red Line 10W30 Engine Oil, Red Line Power Steering
Fluid in the power rack-and-pinion steering system, a
50/50 mix of Red Line D4 ATF and Red Line MTL in the
car's TREMEC T-5, five-speed transmission and Red Line
Heavy Shockproof Gear Lubricant in the rear axle. The
gain was slight, 1.5hp (SAE) at the wheels, so the chief
advantage of Red Line products is their enhanced thermal
stability and the better durability of powertrain
components which comes from that. There’s also
the possibility of extended engine oil drain
intervals, if we choose. |
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We began
our Red Line Synthetic conversion with
10W30 Engine Oil, and Power Steering
Fluid. Image: GHpg staff. |
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Going
Green is easy. Pop open the filter
housing, remove the dirty, stock filter
and slip in the Green. Image: CHpg staff. |
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We wanted an oiled
cotton air filter so we added a “Green Filter” (PN 2021)
we got from THR. While many filters have cotton media, a
Green uses two layers of woven cotton which are thinner,
stronger and hold filter oil better than the gauze used
by K&N and others. The Green Filter people say that,
because it’s woven, the thinner material still traps
particles as small as 5 microns. More interesting is
what they claim about filters with injection-molded
edges. During molding, rubber can leak onto the filter
which reduces its area. Since a Green’s edges aren’t
injection molded; that can’t happen. When we compared a
Green to an injection molded K&N Filter, sure enough; we
noticed that difference. |
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The
stock, ACDelco 41-921 (top right) and the Denso
IT-20. They are different designs--the ACD plug is
platinum-tipped, the Denso uses an iridium tip and is,
also, a colder heat range, better suited to an engine
which runs hard. Image: CHpg staff. |
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The Denso "Iridium Power"
IT-20 has a very small, Iridium center
electrode along with a cut-back and
tapered, ground electrode. Both these
features allow the air-fuel mix in the
combustion chamber increased exposure to
the spark. As a tip material, Iridium
has as good or better durability than
platinum, but lower resistance. That
lower resistance can make a more
powerful spark available at the plug.
Image: CHpg staff. |
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Dyno runs, quarter mile
testing and aggresive street driving made colder spark
plugs desirable, so we installed Denso IT-20 Iridium
Power plugs which are sold by THR. The IT-20 is one heat
range colder and its iridium tip is more durable but has
less resistance than the stock platinum, AC Delco plugs
that were in the engine when we started. The Densos'
small, 0.4-mm center electrode and tapered ground
electrode give the spark maximum exposure to the
incoming, air-fuel charge. We should add that even
General Motors must see merit in the Denso spark plug
design because after about 2004, some Chevrolets have
Densos from the factory.
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MSD Super Conductors are the same length as the stock
wires. The 8.5-mm. MSDs fit the stock wire looms. Red
wire and gray boots add a little color to an otherwise
colorless engine. Image: CHpg staff |
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The
8.5mm Super Conductor Spark Plug Wire
has many design features intended to
meet the reliability/durability needs of
NASCAR NEXTEL Cup race engines. Image: Autotronic
Controls Corp |
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We put MSD’s Super
Conductor plug wires (PN 32089) on our modified 3800.
Their design came out of stock car and road racing
several years ago. They have low resistance but radio
frequency interference (RFI) suppression equal that of
stock wires. The Super Conductor core is Kevlar around
which is a tightly-wound, copper wire. A foot this stuff
has about 40-feet of coiled wire which acts like an RF
choke and suppresses RFI. The outer sleeve is heat,
abrasion and tear resistant. Add super grippy connectors
and durable, heat-resistant silicone boots, the choice
of black or red and you’ve got a great plug wire. Super
Conductors’ lower resistance increases the performance
margin of our ignition system, which could come in handy
later, and the high suppression keeps the Tom Henry RS's
Monsoon sound system noise-free.
We stuck a Stant 180°
thermostat (PN 45848) in place of the stock 195° unit.
Running the cooling system at 180° may reduce the
engine’s tendency to detonate and will improve
durability of underhood rubber and plastic. Next we
swapped the O.E. drive belt for a Goodyear Gatorback
Poly-V belt (PN 4060940). Its diamond-checked back
allows the Gatorback to run up to 15° cooler, extending
belt life. Lastly, we added a bottle of Red Line
WaterWetter to the coolant. WatterWetter can improve
cooling performance when the engine is run hard. |
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The
Goodyear Gatorback belt, by virtue of its
diamond-checked backing, generates less heat as it
flexes around the pulleys. This lengthens belt life. The
Stant 180 ‘stat is an easy swap on a 3.8L V6. CHpg
staff.
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The Goodyear Eagle
F1 GS-D3, known for its “flying-V”
tread, is an outstanding performer on
wet roads and one of the better,
all-round, ultraperformance radials on
the market . CHpg staff. |
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Speaking of Goodyear,
the last big American tire company, its Eagle F1 GS-D3
is a killer, all-weather, ultraperformance radial tire.
It has good dry traction and, by virtue of its
distinctive tread pattern which aggressively channels
water away from the tread, great performance on wet
roads. It also has excellent tread life and low noise
characteristics. Lastly, it has Goodyear’s neat
“Rim-Guard” feature which lowers the chance of wheel
damage if we scrape a curb. We swapped the stock,
T-rated, 235/55R16s for a GS-D3s in P245/50ZR16. As
these Z28-sized tires fit on our stock 16x8-in. wheels,
the switch was simple. We ordered the GS-D3s from Tucker
Tire in Covina California, then had Tucker’s
professionals mount and balance them. |
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Now, we needed a little
DIY computer reprogramming. We used a Hypertech Power
Programmer (PN 30009) to lower our engine control
module's (ECM) fan-on temperatures to match the 180°
thermostat, to alter the vehicle speed limiter above
what was stock with T-rated tires and optimize the
speedometer calibration for the
slightly-smaller-diameter, Goodyear F1 GS-D3s.
Working a Little Harder
The first mods where
easy but now, we’ll earn our pay. Under the back of this
Camaro was that gleaming Flowmaster exhaust but a
nasty-looking rear end. We didn’t want to take the rear
end apart to have the housing grit blasted before we
could paint it because, then we’d have to set-up the
gears. Not!
The Eastwood Company
has a paint called “Rust Encapsulator” which spokesman,
John Sloane, told us, “...is a slow-cure enamel,
fortified with a fine glass-flake amendment which seals
the surface.”
Seal the surface and
rusting virtually stops. “R.E.” can be used alone or as
a primer, over which you can apply just about any paint.
It’s intended for spray application after thinning with
20% lacquer thinner, but can be brushed on, if you add
10% retarder.
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ECM calibration was a task with which we became very
familiar on this project. Our first attempt, was pretty
basic. We used a Hypertech Power Programmer to lower the
fan-on temps and to change the ECM’s tire size
programming to work with the 245/50ZR16 Goodyears. As
time went on, as you'll read in future installments of
this project, calibration became our bane. CHpg staff. |
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Our
initial experience with Rust Encapsulator was
brushing it on but buying the aerosol version is a
better idea. Either way, RE saved a lot of work. CHpg
staff. |
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We plugged the brake
hose connection on the chassis, then got the Camaro’s
axle out, stripped-off the brakes, capped-off the
caliper hoses, masked its vent and ABS sensor
connection.
Some aftermarket
service data, like the
Haynes Repair Manual,
claims you shouldn’t remove brake components because
that lets air in the system then a scan tester is
required to bled it. That’s bunk. It is true that, in
the unlikely situation that you loose enough brake fluid
such that the ABS brake valve drains, you need the scan
tester to bleed the ABS; however, when you remove the
rear axle or the front calipers, immediately plug the
connections on the chassis and the brake hoses. Once you
reconnect the brake plumbing, bleed the brakes manually
to get the small amount of air out of the lines and
hoses and you're set. |
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Since we
had both the Flowmaster exhaust off and the
rear axle out, not only did we use the Karcher 2650HH to
wash the rear axle but we blasted the whole underneath
of the back of the car. Image: CHpg staff. |
Next we cleaned the
rear axle with warm water and Simple Green using a
Karcher 2650HH Pressure Washer we bought at Costco. We
blew the axle dry with shop air, masked-off the brake
hoses and the parking brake levers then painted it with
Rust Encapsulator (PN16040Z). After overnight drying, we
shot it with Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black (PN11175Z).
After a second overnight dry we reinstalled the axle,
reassembled the brakes then bled the rear calipers. |
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“Chassis
Black” has been around for years but,
recently, Eastwood revised its formula,
adding to the product’s already good
durability. We used new, “Extreme
Chassis Black” on the Camaro’s rear axle. How ‘bout that snazzy
spray gizmo on the can? We found that at Ace Hardware.
Image: CHpg staff. |
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Getting
the axle in-and-out of a 4th-gen is easy and moving it
is a snap with a floor jack. A second set of jack-stands
supported the axle while we hung the new suspension.
Image: CHpg staff.
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Global West Suspension
Systems, an engineering-driven manufacturer of
high-performance suspension pieces for Camaros and other
Chevys, has a brand called “Quiet Ride”. These products
combine polyurethane or rubber bushings with spherical
bearings for a decrease in deflection but only a modest
increase in harshness. Quiet Ride parts are for
high-performance street use, not racing, and are
available from Tom Henry Racing.
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The GW rear arms each have a rubber bushing and a
spherical bearing. Rubber goes in the body pickup point
and the bearing bolts to the axle. Image: CHpg staff. |
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Here are
most of the pieces we used in the rear.
The Bilsteins have heavy-duty valving which improve the
handling of any 4th-gen Camaro. Image: CHpg staff. |
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Once the
control arms are in place, set the isolator atop the
spring, then raise the spring, such that its top goes
into the spring seat, then push it onto the rear axle.
Image: CHpg staff.
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Between the much stiffer
lower control arms and the aggressively-valved Bilstein shocks, the rear suspension
is going to deflect less and better damped. Access the
shocks’ top nuts through the interior. On the bulkhead
behind the rear seat are two carpeted access flaps. Fold
them back, pull out the sponge insulators and there are
the nuts. Once the shocks’ lower bolts are tight, you
can take the rear end off the jacks. Image: CHpg staff. |
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We bolted-on Quiet Ride
tubular steel, rear control arms (PN TBC14) which fit
‘82-’02 Camaros and offer an increase in rigidity over
the stamped-steel stockers. GW arms use a Moog, rubber
bushing in the body end and a spherical bearing on the
axle end. These arms can be installed in an hour.
Next, we ordered Eibach
Springs and Bilstein high-pressure, gas shocks. The rear
Eibachs are a stiffer, progressive rate design,
dual-rated at 75 and 135 pounds-per-inch. They lower the
car about 1.5-in. and are part of the “Pro Kit” (PN
3870.240)
for V6 Camaros. The Bilsteins' (PN
B46-1914) stiffer
damping is an excellent match for our spring rates and
ride height. We added a 19-mm, Z28 rear stabilizer bar.
We used the production Camaro mounts and end links but
installed Global West polyurethane link bushings (PN
19-428).
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Side-by-side
are the stock and Global West trackbars.
The GW upgrade offers an increase in rigidity and is of
value to any modified Camaro, be it an autocrosser or a
drag racer. Image: CHpg staff. |
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One neat
feature of the Global West Trackbar is that
it's adjustable so the chassis can be centered on the
rear suspension no matter what the ride height. You
loosen the nuts then turn the hex section as necessary
to center the chassis. Image: CHpg staff. |
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The rear
stabilizer and Global West Trackbar are in
place, so the rear is done, except for centering.
Image: CHpg staff.
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We finished the rear
with a Global West, Quiet Ride Trackbar (PN PHC3), an
improvement over the flimsy, rubber-bushed stocker. Made
of tubular steel with a poly bushing in one end and a
bearing in the other, it’s a stiffer lateral link so
suspension deflection during cornering is reduced. It’s
adjustable for length, so the body can be centered,
regardless of ride height. All these rear suspension
parts came from Tom Henry Racing.
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Aftermarket service manuals say to use a pickle fork and
a hammer to separate ball joints and tie rod ends. Not!
That's a lot of work and it renders good parts unusable.
Use a ball-joint and tie-rod removal tool like this
one--it's much easier on you and the parts. Image: CHpg
staff. |
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On to the front
suspension. We pulled off the front brakes, popped the
ball joints loose then removed the steering knuckles,
the struts and the front control arms. Let's take a
minute to expand upon the subject of polyurethane
suspension parts. "Poly" is common in suspension
upgrades, however, it's not appropriate in all
situations. Urethane is more rigid than rubber so, on a
car with ride travel typical of road cars, when a
suspension nears compression and rebound limits,
urethane can bind suspensions which have control arms
which twist as well as move up-and-down. Examples are
rear bushings in 4th-gen front lower arms or the
bushings in the rear arms. On the street, if you want
reduced deflection, it’s better to use
high-durometer-rubber bushings from the FE7 suspension.
Some may know these as “1LE bushings”, though they were
on cars other than 1LEs. These bushings noticeably
decrease deflection, however, they won't bind the
suspension on street cars nor are they overly harsh.
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We ordered stock, FE7
front lower bushings (PN 22145392 and 22156434) from the
Tom Henry Racing. We, also, ordered Moog’s “enhanced
design” lower ball joints (PN 6145T) which have
pressed-in rather than folded-over bottom plates and
come with grease fittings, both durability and
performance upgrades. Moog is a supplier to NASCAR, so
if they’re good enough for the Busch and Cup guys;
they’re good enough for us.
Both the bushings and
the ball-joints have to be pressed-in. Since we were
ordering the parts from THR, we shipped the arms to Tom
Henry Chevrolet's Service Department and had them run
next door and get the parts, install them and ship the
arms back. Finally, we wet-abraded the lower arms using
Standard Abrasives Medium BriteRite Pads with hot Simple
Green and water. We dried them with shop air then, then
shot them with Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black.
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The Tom Henry Chevrolet
Service Department uses an assembly of
J-Tools in a hydraulic press to install
and automatically set the position of
bushings. Their positions in the front
lower arm is critical to avoid
interference between the arm and the crossmember when
the suspension rebounds. You can install bushings using
traditional methods, but you must set them at specific
positions. Push the front bushing in from the rear until
3/16-1/4-in. is left exposed. Push the rear bushing in
from the bottom, until 7/16-1/2-in. protrudes above the
arm. Image: CHpg staff |
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When reinstalling
control arms with rubber bushings, have the arms at ride
height while tightening the bolts. Bushings don't
rotate, they twist. Tighten the bolts with the
suspension hanging and, when it returns to ride height;
the bushings are constantly twisted. When the suspension
nears full compression, they’ll really be twisted, which
can damage the bushings. Also, with the rear bushing in
the front lower arm of a 4th-gen car, if you tighten the
bolt with the suspension hanging, the bushing may turn
off-axis in the crossmember. If that happens, setting
alignment is difficult, the misaligned bushing can cause
increased harshness and the cross member and bushing may
be damaged.
We disassembled the
front strut assemblies, scrapped the stock springs and
shocks then installed the stock spring seats, 377 lb/in.
front springs out of the Eibach Pro Kit and the stock
upper spring mounts onto two Bilstein shocks (PN
B46-1913).
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While
the procedure of using the garage floor
or other flat surface as a "jig" while
assembling the struts seems
all-too-simple--it works very well.
Image: CHpg
staff. |
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The Tom Henry
service department uses a high-dollar, J-tool jig in a
hydraulic press to assemble 4th-gen front struts,
equipment out-of-reach of most DIYs. You can use
ordinary strut compressors if you orient the shock’s
lower mounting bar and the upper strut mount in specific
positions while tightening the shock absorber nut.
Your “jig” is your
garage or shop floor. Each strut mount has two threaded
studs and a rubber pin near its front edge. Once the
struts are assembled with the springs compressed, the
springs’ upper ends seated in the strut mounts and the
shock absorber nuts loose, lay the struts with the front
edge of each mount flat on the floor. Rotate the left
shock so the end of its lower mounting bar is flat on
the floor and (looking at the strut top) inclined down
to the right (pointed outside the vehicle). Rotate the
right shock so the end of its mounting bar is flat on
the floor with (looking at the strut top) the crossbar
inclined downwards to the left (pointed outside the
vehicle). Now, tighten the shock nut and remove the
spring compressors and you’re ready to stick your struts
back on the car.
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The Global
West Del-A-Lum is really a bearing not a bushing. The
blue aluminum shell is pressed into the control arm. The
gold steel sleeve rides on the control arm shaft or bolt
and is locked in place. The Delrin sleeve "floats"
between the two. Layers of grease are between all the
parts. Del-A-Lums are a better choice than polyurethane
bushings because they never squeak, do not bind the
suspension and have better durability. Image: Global
West Suspension |
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Next, we had the
Tom Henry Service Department install Global West Del-A-Lum
³bushings² in the car's stock upper control arms. Del-A-Lums
are not really bushings but Delrin/Aluminum composite
suspension bearings. Swapping the stock rubber bushings
for Global's parts eliminate deflection of the front
upper arms under cornering loads and that makes the
car's handling more predictable and consistent. Since
the Tom Henry RS is still primarily a street car, the
Del-A-Lums in the uppers and the production 1LE rubber
bushings we installed in the lower control arms make a
great combination. The lower arms take most of the
impact loads, so keeping rubber in those arms allows us
to retain a modest level of compliance to keep impact
harshness and noise at an acceptable level. Since
we had the upper arms off, once the Del-A-Lums were in
place we, also, added new, Moog heavy-duty ball joints (PN
K6462) to the arms.
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The OE
bushing (left) and the Del-A-Lum.
Obviously, the Del-A-Lum is a
less compliant, but not quite as
stiff as a solid metal bushing.
The delrin-aluminum composite
design with the parts separated
by grease makes for outstanding
durability. It's not uncommon to
have Global West Del-A-Lum
outlast the car it's on. Image:
CHpg Staff. |
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The
THRS's stock front upper control
arms fitted with Global West
parts and Moog ball joints.
Image: CHpg Staff. |
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Like
most suspension "bushings" the
Del-A-Lums are best installed
using a hydraulic press along
with a small, temporary "spacer"
to keep the arm from collapsing
when the bushing shell is
pressed into the arm. Image:
CHpg Staff. |
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We assembled the
arms and the control arm mounting brackets then stuck
the refurbished lower arms, the Eibach/Bilstein struts,
the mod'ed upper arms, the steering knuckles, a pair of
Moog tie rod ends (PN ES3238RL) and all the brake
hardware back on the car.
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The upper arm, its
mounting bracket and the strut are
installed as a unit. Guide the strut
mount studs though the shock tower, hold
the lower control arm down then push the
strut’s lower mount onto the arm. Image: CHpg
staff. |
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We
bolted the front brakes in place, bled them and we were
done with the front, except for an alignment. Image: CHpg staff.
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This is
the SPX Kent-Moore tool which alignment shops should use
when setting the camber and caster on the front of a
4th-gen Camaro. You can do the alignment without the
tool, however you'll end up with the lower control arm
bushings preloaded and that tends to decrease their
reliability-durability. Image: CHpg
staff. |
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While we're on the
subject of doing the job right, let's talk about tools.
Marketed by SPX Kent-Moore, GMs supplier of service
equipment, specialized tools (Techs at Tom Henry
Chevrolet Service call them “J-Tools”) are sometimes
needed. J-Tools for bushing installation and strut
assembly are not necessary, however, the “Caster/Camber
Adjusting Tool” (J-38658) is required. You can’t adjust
camber without it because you end-up tightening the
bushing bolts with the suspension hanging.
Our front suspension
upgrade ended with a stock Z28, 30-mm front
stabilizer bar from and Global West polyurethane
mounts (PN
19-1146) and links (PN 19-409) from THR. |
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With suspension mods
done for now, we bolted the Goodyear F1 GS-D3s back on
and took the Tom Henry RS to Tucker Tire for front end
alignment and to center the rear using the GW Track
Bar’s adjustment.
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Amanda Dakai, a Tucker Tire suspension technician, works
the camber/caster gauge. Tucker Tire is one of L.A.’s
top suspension centers with four alignment racks running
all day long. Yes, you need a reservation. Image: CHpg
staff. |
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Just One More Thing
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Installing higher-ratio rockers on a 3800 in a Camaro is
fairly easy. You remove the ignition hardware, pull the
valve covers then trade the stock rocker bolts, rockers,
pushrods and support bar for the SLP parts. Image: CHpg
staff.
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The final step in Part
One of the Tom Henry RS project was to install a set of
SLP Performance Parts, 1.8:1-ratio, rocker arms on the
car's 3800 V6. These come in a kit that includes
.300-in. longer pushrods and new GM rocker arm bolts.
Longer pushrods are required because the SLP rocker's
pushrod seat is 3/10th of an inch higher than stock and
the new bolts are necessary because the O.E. units are
"torque-to-yield" fasteners which cannot be reused. |
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Where as the stock
rockers are investment-cast steel with a
roller fulcrum, the SLPs are machined aluminum
with roller fulcrum and tip. They are about
half-an-ounce lighter. Image: CHpg staff. |
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While changing
rockers on our 3800 Series II, we
prelubed the rockers with Red Line
10W30 oil and we dabbed some Red LIne
Assembly Lube on the valve stem tips.
Also, you must replace the rocker
bolts, if you stick with GM bolts. ARP
makes a reusable 3800 rocker bolt
and later in the project, we'll
install a set.
Image: CHpg staff. |
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We're almost ready to
put the valve covers back on. We still
need to squirt some Red LIne 10W30, into
the top of each rocker, stick new Fel-Pro
gaskets in the covers then
reinstall them. Then, we'll put the
ignition hardware back on and go
testing. Image: CHpg staff. |
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The stock rocker ratio
is 1.6:1. Higher ratio rocker arms offer more valve lift
and duration for a given lobe lift. The stock cam for an
unblown 3800 has .256-in. lobe lift. With that cam,
valve lift with stock rockers is .410" but with the SLP
1.8s, it's .460". Generally, more valve lift means more
air into the engine and more power out.
Another difference
between the SLP 1.8s and the stock rockers is 0.5-oz.
less weight per rocker. In theory, a lighter rocker
taking mass out of the valvetrain should improve the
engine's ability to "RPM", however, right now, the
engine in the Tom Henry RS peaks at 5000 rpm and we've
still got the stock rev. limiter in the ECM calibration
so even if the SLPs do offer an advantage at high rpm,
at this point; we can't use it.
With the SLP rockers
installed, we went back to the chassis dyno at Westech.
In a series of six passes on their Superflow 840, three
with stock rockers and three with the SLP 1.8s, the
results were mixed. At 4900-5000 rpm we saw just a hair
less than a 6-hp average increase, but below 3400 rpm,
we saw as much as a 3.5-hp loss. This increase up high
but a loss down low is typical of adding both lift and
duration. Nevertheless, from 3700-up, there's a
consistent increase so, in the real world, on the street
or the drag strip, you might see a slight decrease in
e.t.
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Most of
the time, you see chassis dyno information as curves.
Superflow's software can do a lot of interesting number
crunching. This graph offers a more visual
representation of the improvement that we got with the
SLP rockers. The blue baseline is the average of three
passes on Westech's SF840 before the rockers. The red
graph is the average power improvement below or above
the baseline from three runs with the 1.8 rockers
installed. We don't know why this representation style
is used more often because we think it's a better way.
Image: CHpg staff. |
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This particular 1.8
rocker is not available direct from SLP but is sold by
LM Performance. The manufacturer of these rockers was
Yella Terra, an Australian company which makes
performance products for 3800 Series II V6es
(down-under, they call it the "Ecotec 3800") and
private-labeled them for SLP.
Once LMPerformance sells out of the SLP 1.8s, V6
Camaro DIYs will be able to get Yella Terra's new,
"second-design" 3.8 rocker which is available in both
1.8:1 and 1.7:1 ratios . Later in this
project we'll acquire a set of the Yella Terra 1.8s and
test them but, for now, the SLPs work quite well.
We'll be back in about
two months with the second installment of the Tom Henry
RS built-up in which we'll really roll-up our sleeves
and turn some wrenches. We'll start with cylinder head
modifications.
Click here to read Tom
Henry RS Project Part 2
Sources:
All the
GM parts and most of the aftermarket parts discussed in
this article are available from Tom Henry Racing at
www.tomhenryracing.com. The products not available from
THR are listed below:
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American
Kleaner Mfg.
(Karcher Pressure Washers)
Box 3900
Rancho Cucamonga CA 91729
909.481.4333
www.karcher-usa.com |
Eastwood
Company
263 Shoemaker Rd.
Pottstown PA 19464
800.345.1178
www.eastwoodcompany.com |
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Haynes
Publications, Inc.
861 Lawrence Dr.
Newbury Park, CA 91320
800.442.9637
www.haynes.com/na.html |
Helm,
Inc.
14310
Hamilton Ave.
Highland Park, MI 48203
800.782.4356
www.helminc.com |
LMPerformance, Inc.
PO Box 534
Destin, FL 32540-0534
850.654.4730
www.lmperformance.com |
SPX Kent-Moore
28635 Mound Road
Warren, Michigan 48092-3499
800.468.6657
www.spxkentmoore.com |
Standard
Abrasives Motorsports Division
4201 Guardian St.
Simi Valley CA 93063
800.383.6001
www.sa-motorsports.com |
Valco
Cincinnati
411 Circle Freeway Dr.
Cincinnati, Ohio 45246
800.788.3865
www.valco-cp.com
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Vericom
Computers, Inc.
14320 James Road
Suite 200
Rogers, MN 55374 USA
800.533.5547
www.vericomcomputers.com |
Westech
Performance Group
Unit C
11098 Venture Av.
Mira Loma CA 91752
951.685.4767
www.westechperformance.com
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